KILIMANJARO CLIMBING AND WALKING GUIDE

CLIMBS

110 The Western Breach 1100m I** 6h to summit.

The easiest way on the south-west side of the mountain; well marked. The first section is on steep scree above the Arrow Glacier Hut, occasional snow/ice patches. Higher up a pleasant scramble and a short loose section lead to the crater rim, 200m below Uhuru Peak. Coming down, route finding may be tricky because the breach fills with cloud in the afternoon. For reaching the summit, .2 ways to continue. (i) Traverse 2km east then south-east across the relatively flat crater floor to attain the Marangu route halfway between Gillman's Point and Uhuru Peak. (ii) The Furtwangler Glacier to the south-east is skirted either on its right or on its easier north side; beyond, an easy gully leads to the level rim, l00m west of Uhuru Peak. Ice axe and possibly crampons useful.

111 Heim Glacier 1200m II/III*** l0h.

A Nelson, H J Cooke, D N Goodall, 1957. The obvious glacier with a dog-leg right of the Breach Wall precipices. An outstanding route; technical difficulties are short. From the Barranco Hut follow the South Kibo Circuit (cut-off point as noted above) and take a rocky then moraine ridge north, directly to foot of glacier. A bivouac boulder lies about l00m below glacier snout at 4500m (3h). Climb the snout or go up scree on left and traverse onto glacier higher up. Follow the easiest line upwards. The top of Window Buttress can be reached in 2 ways.

(i) l00m from its highest rocks, make a traverse left onto a broad ledge on the buttress; follow this left then right to a ramp which is climbed to an ice pitch and the top (II/III). (ii) The broad ledge can be avoided by climbing 450 ice leftwards to the top in 3 pitches (III). 4h. This is the knee of the dog-leg (4800m). Good bivouac site in magnificent surroundings. (From here a long rising traverse left gains the base of the 2 famous Breach Wall icicles, 80m high). Climb easy slopes to a steepening taken direct or avoided by gullies well to the left. Beyond, the angle relents (bivouac sites possible) and the summit ice cliffs are seen. Aim for the left edge of these and pass below them to reach Uhuru Peak (6h).

Note: glacial recession has recently removed the lowest part of the Heim leaving steep, unstable scree and icy patches. In poor snow cover this section could be very hard and unpleasant.

Two icicles mentioned above are part of the Breach Wall Direct Route; the left one was climbed by right Messner, K Renzler in 1978 (l2h including lower sections, VI**). There are a variety of approaches to the icicles: (i) up the lower walls by steep rocks and snow below and left of the icicles, (ii) by steep snowfields and ice to ledges leading right to lowest point of Balletto Gl. (iii) from the Heim Gl. by a left rising traverse. Avoid attempting the icicle in the afternoon when it is often running with water. There are good bivouac ledges at the base of the icicles.

Two other major glaciers lie right of the Heim: the Kersten and Decken. It is possible to find a way up the right side of the Kersten at about grade III/IV. The Decken can be climbed at III. Numerous harder variations exist on all the glaciers.

112 Barafu Route 1300m I* 6h.

Combined with the Machame or Umbwe approaches, this adventurous easy itinerary allows the scenery of the Kibo South circuit to be sampled whilst gaining acclimatisation. The Barafu Hut (for access, see Kibo South Circuit above) is situated in a desolate spot. Unless the snowline is low, water can be hard to find. From the hut the west ridge of the south-east valley depression is followed. The lip of the crater is reached between the Ratzel and Rebmann glaciers. Uhuru Peak is less than lh away. The final slopes before the lip are steep and can be icy. To avoid cutting steps, crampons could then be useful. In descent, times can be halved.

Crater and Summit ice fields. For those well acclimatised a bivouac on the crater floor is very much worth the effort as it allows the Northern and Eastern icefields to be explored (outstandingly beautiful at dawn) as well as the inner (Reusch) crater. Inside the latter are numerous fumaroles and extensive sulphur deposits. The scene within the central Ash Pit is impressive.