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Kamis, 14 Februari 2008

Top-rope climbing


Top-rope climbing (or Top roping) is a technique in climbing in which the rope runs from the belayer at the foot of the route through one or more carabiners connected to an anchor at the top of the route and back down to the climber. Assuming that the anchor holds, the route is predominantly bottom-to-top and the belayer pays attention, the climber cannot fall more than a short distance and can safely attempt the most difficult routes. Most top rope anchors can be reached through non-technical routes.

Top roping is most often done on routes that are otherwise unleadable for one reason or another. Top roping has a long and proud history in the climbing world because of its low environmental impact. It is also the most commonly used way to climb at indoor climbing walls. It is also used on some areas or types of rock where other methods would be unsafe or damage the rock, for example the sandstone rocks of Kent and Sussex in south-east England. Here the rock is soft and prone to erosion, so placing protection into the rock would be both damaging and unreliable, and is therefore banned. Top-roping from permanent anchors and solo climbing are the only forms of ascent allowed.

By contrast, in some other areas, top roping is frowned upon for various reasons - including possible erosion from people trying routes too difficult for them; lack of suitable top-rope anchor points, or occasionally more esoteric ethical reasons.

For top roping, a low-stretch (static or semi-static) rope is recommended to prevent rope wear, rock erosion and to ensure maximum security in the event of a fall. Most practitioners would recommend the use of two screwgate carabiners, to provide backup in case one becomes undone. A low-stretch sling or additional rope to attach these to the anchor point is also widely used. Where the anchor point is not a firm bolt, at least two separate points should be used.
Climber being lowered by the belayer, with weight on the top rope and hands outstretched for balance while "walking" down.
Climber being lowered by the belayer, with weight on the top rope and hands outstretched for balance while "walking" down.

It is important to arrange the system in such a way that as little moving rope comes into contact with the rock as possible - it is possible to irreversibly damage ropes otherwise. Multiple slings, or a long, adjustable-length sling are often the best options.

Top roped climbing is often (psychologically) easier and safer than sport climbing, in which the lead climber clips into preplaced bolts in the rock, or traditional climbing, in which protection is placed along the route by a lead climber. Many novice climbers initially experience the sport through top roping.

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