Free solo climbing

Free solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a form of free climbing where the climber (the free soloist) foregoes ropes, harnesses and other protective gear while ascending and relies only on his or her physical strength, climbing ability, and psychological fortitude to avoid a fatal fall. Free solo climbing should not be confused with free climbing, in which gear is used for safety in case of a fall, but not to assist the climb. Less risky alternatives to free soloing include bouldering (climbing at heights low enough that a fall would typically be safe) and deep water soloing (climbing where falling would result in harmlessly falling into water).

Reasons for free soloing given by high-profile climbers include the simplicity and speed with which one can climb, a feeling of intense concentration required, and the adrenaline rush. The practice is mostly confined to routes familiar to the climber and whose difficulty lies well within the climber's abilities. However, inherent risks such as loose rocks or sudden change in weather are always present, and some high-profile climbers have been killed this way.

Yosemite climbing program manager and park ranger Mark Fincher said there has been only one confirmed death from free-soloing at the park, that of Derek Hersey, a high-profile free-soloist who died on Sentinel Rock in 1993. The challenge of free soloing single pitch routes is mainly the mental difficulty for the climber of staying focused on what he is doing. Free soloing should usually not be hard in a physical sense. This is not to say, however, that on longer routes unpredictable weather and rock conditions cannot create grave hazards for climbers. Hersey, though a master of solo climbing's physical and mental demands, is believed to have encountered rain during his fatal solo ascent of the 1000-meter Sentinel Rock.[1]

Practitioners

The sport has produced a number of well-known practitioners, made famous by remarkable photos of a climber totally alone and unprotected on sheer cliffs. One of the most famous is Frenchman Alain Robert ("spiderman"), who has scaled dozens of skyscrapers around the world — a sport known as buildering — and many rock walls, without using any safety equipment.

Some of the driving forces in rock climbing and free soloing from 1900 to today: Paul Preuss, Henry Barber, John Bachar, Derek Hersey, Peter Croft, Alexander Huber, Dan Osman, Dean Potter, Alain Robert and Michael Reardon.

Safer alternatives

Free soloing on seacliffs, where a climber falling into deep water may avoid injury, is known as deep water soloing - however, this should only be carried out at very specific sites which have been properly ascertained to be safe for the purpose. Otherwise, free soloing on seacliffs is viewed as particularly dangerous due to the unique combination of hazards such as loose rock, tides, submerged boulders, and difficulty of rescue.

Remaining close to the ground (typically below 25 ft.) and using protective mats is known as bouldering and is another, safer alternative.

Indoor Climbing

Indoor Climbing is an increasingly popular form of rock climbing performed on artificial structures that attempt to mimic the experience of real rock climbing but in a more controlled environment.

The first indoor walls tended to be made primarily of brick leaving little scope for interesting routes as the steepness of the wall and variety of the hand holds were somewhat limited.

The most common construction method involves screwing resin hand holds on to wooden boards. The boards can be of varying height & steepness (from completely horizontal 'roofs' to not even vertical 'slabs') and have a large variety of holds (from very small 'crimpers' to huge 'jugs') attached. This variety, coupled with the ability for the climbs to be changed by attaching the holds onto the wall differently has resulted in indoor climbing becoming a very successful sport.

Indoor climbing has also seen an increase in popularity in areas with rainy climates where climbing outdoors is sometimes difficult. Besides offering an alternative during inclement weather, many working adults find that they can get to the gym after work and still climb even though it is too dark outside. In order to improve in any sport, consistent practice is crucial. With the advent of indoor climbing, weather, seasonal difficulties, and busy schedules are less of an obstacle to consistent improvement, and enjoyment of the sport.

The proliferation of indoor climbing gyms has increased the accessibility, and thus the popularity, of the sport of climbing. Since environmental conditions (ranging from the structural integrity of the climbing surfaces, to equipment wear, to proper use of equipment) can be more controlled in such a setting, indoor climbing is perhaps a safer and more friendly introduction to the sport. In fact birthday parties and children's teams are common at many rock gyms.

This sense of security has a downside of course - a new gym climber may head to the cliffs and find they do not have all of the necessary skills for climbing in a setting without preplaced anchors, and explicit routefinding.

Bouldering

Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large boulders or artificial man-made boulders. However, it may also be practiced at the base of larger rock faces, or even on buildings or public architecture (see buildering).

Bouldering Basics

Bouldering is a style of climbing emphasizing power, strength, and dynamics. Its focus is on individual moves or short sequences of moves, unlike traditional climbing or sport climbing, which generally demand more endurance over longer stretches of rock where the difficulty of individual moves is not as great. Boulder routes are commonly referred to as problems (a British appellation) because the nature of the climb is often short, curious, and much like problem solving. Sometimes these problems are eliminates, meaning certain artificial restrictions are imposed.

To reduce the risk of injury from a fall, climbers rarely go higher than 3-5 meters above the ground (anything over 7 meters is generally considered to be free-soloing, although such climbs might also be termed high-ball bouldering problems). For further protection, climbers typically put a bouldering mat (crash pad) on the ground to break their fall. Lastly, climbers often have one or more spotters, who work to direct the climber's body toward the crash pad during a fall, while protecting the climber's head from hazards.

Bouldering is increasing in popularity; bouldering areas are common in indoor climbing gyms and some climbing gyms are dedicated solely to bouldering. Children are joining the sport now as well as adults. In fact, studies have found that young climbers develop better skills as adults from their experience with youthful disadvantages such as height and strength.[citation needed]

Equipment

One of the major appeals of bouldering is its relatively scant equipment requirements. Although nothing is actually required, common equipment includes:

* Loose, powdered chalk as a hand drying agent while climbing.
* A mattress-like object called a crash pad. These are generally thick, rectangular foam pads with a heavy-duty fabric shell. They are opened and placed at the base of a boulder to cover irregularities in the landing and provide some cushion if the climber falls.
* Climbing shoes, for better traction and edging capabilities.
* A brush, or several brushes of differing sizes, typically with nylon bristles but sometimes coarse animal hair, is used to clean holds and is often mounted on a telescopic pole to allow greater reach.
* Sports tape is useful for covering cuts or blisters, as well as providing support for joints that may have been strained.

It is not uncommon to see people bouldering with shoes, a chalkbag, and a small mat to wipe their feet on.

Ratings


As in other types of climbing, bouldering has developed its own grading systems for comparing the difficulty of problems. The most commonly used grading systems are the Fontainebleau system which ranges from 1 to 8c, and the John Sherman V-grade system, beginning at V0 and increasing by integers to a current top grade of V16 (The Wheel of Life by Dai Koyamada in the Grampians, Australia). Both scales are open-ended at the top, and thus the upper grade of these systems is always increasing as boulderers ascend more difficult problems.

History

Bouldering's documented origins may be found in the United Kingdom, France, and Italy in the last quarter of the 19th century [2]. The British coined the word bouldering at that time. For many years, bouldering was usually viewed as training for climbers, although, in the 1930s and late 1940s, Pierre Allain and his companions enjoyed bouldering for its own sake in Fontainebleau, considered by many to be the Mecca of bouldering. The first climber to actually make bouldering his primary specialty (in the mid 1950s) and to advocate its acceptance as a legitimate sport not restricted to a particular area was John Gill, an amateur gymnast who found the challenge and movement of bouldering enjoyable.

Terminology

Beta
Any helpful tips, solutions to problems, guides, tricks, etc. that one climber passes on to another.

Boulderer
Any person participating in bouldering.

Crimp
A type of hold where the climber can fit only their fingertips on the hold. A crimp may be 'closed,' in which the thumb is pressed over the index finger to strengthen one's grip, or the crimp may be 'open,' where the thumb does not contact the fingers. Closed crimps, while stronger, put more stress on the hand and are generally regarded to pose a higher injury risk.

Dab
Touching anything other than the climbing surface in any form, whether intentional or not; it is grounds for immediate termination of the send attempt.

Dyno
Shortened form of dynamic movement. Essentially any movement that requires you to jump or swing from one hold to another. Technically, a dyno is a move that, if not completed successfully (by catching the next hold), will result in a fall.

Eliminate
Any problem that eliminates some of the holds on a natural way up the boulder, maximizing the total number of climbs in a limited space.

Flag
Extending a leg as a counter-balance without placing your foot on a hold.

Flash
Completing a problem on the first try with no falls, but with beta.

Highball
A term for a boulder that is so high, falling when close to the top could cause serious injury. Some highballs have anchor bolts at the top, to allow for protected top-rope climbing.

Hold
Any piece of rock that you can grab or place your foot onto, and pull/push yourself up.

Jug
A hold that is large enough that you can reach your entire hand around, making it a good hold to pull yourself up with.

Matching
Matching implies that the feet or hands are on the same hold.

Offwidth
An awkward crack or split in the rock, that is too wide to jam a hand in, yet not wide enough to back and foot. These typically require a combination of several different methods to achieve a good hold.

Onsight
To ascend a problem on the first try with no falls and no beta.

Problem
A generic term describing challenging manoeuvres, normally on a boulder or small outcrop.

Sit Start
A start to a problem beginning with the boulderer sitting on either the ground or a crash pad, at the lowest point of a route. Typically, starting from a sit start increases the difficulty of a route.

Sloper
A hold that tends to slope, or is round. Sometimes very difficult to grasp.

Smearing
Pushing with the ball of the foot where there is no hold.

Spotter
A person who tends to the safety of the climber. This may include duties such as moving the crashpad, removing dangerous objects in the fall zone, and physically cushioning or modifying the trajectory of the climber in the event of a fall.

Traverse
Generally a horizontal climb that involves traversing across a face or overhang, or sometimes around a boulder, occasionally finishing off at an arête in order to top out.

To send
To complete a problem.

Top out
To complete a problem by getting to the top of the boulder where one can stand upright.

Bouldering Areas

The region around Fontainebleau near Paris is particularly famous for its beautiful and concentrated bouldering sites. Well-known areas include Stanage (UK), Hueco Tanks (Texas), Castle Hill (New Zealand), Bishop (California), Yosemite (California), Rocktown (Georgia), Rocklands (South Africa), Hampi (India) and Horse Pens 40 (Alabama) amongst others.

Top-rope climbing

Top-rope climbing (or Top roping) is a technique in climbing in which the rope runs from the belayer at the foot of the route through one or more carabiners connected to an anchor at the top of the route and back down to the climber. Assuming that the anchor holds, the route is predominantly bottom-to-top and the belayer pays attention, the climber cannot fall more than a short distance and can safely attempt the most difficult routes. Most top rope anchors can be reached through non-technical routes.

Top roping is most often done on routes that are otherwise unleadable for one reason or another. Top roping has a long and proud history in the climbing world because of its low environmental impact. It is also the most commonly used way to climb at indoor climbing walls. It is also used on some areas or types of rock where other methods would be unsafe or damage the rock, for example the sandstone rocks of Kent and Sussex in south-east England. Here the rock is soft and prone to erosion, so placing protection into the rock would be both damaging and unreliable, and is therefore banned. Top-roping from permanent anchors and solo climbing are the only forms of ascent allowed.

By contrast, in some other areas, top roping is frowned upon for various reasons - including possible erosion from people trying routes too difficult for them; lack of suitable top-rope anchor points, or occasionally more esoteric ethical reasons.

For top roping, a low-stretch (static or semi-static) rope is recommended to prevent rope wear, rock erosion and to ensure maximum security in the event of a fall. Most practitioners would recommend the use of two screwgate carabiners, to provide backup in case one becomes undone. A low-stretch sling or additional rope to attach these to the anchor point is also widely used. Where the anchor point is not a firm bolt, at least two separate points should be used.
Climber being lowered by the belayer, with weight on the top rope and hands outstretched for balance while "walking" down.
Climber being lowered by the belayer, with weight on the top rope and hands outstretched for balance while "walking" down.

It is important to arrange the system in such a way that as little moving rope comes into contact with the rock as possible - it is possible to irreversibly damage ropes otherwise. Multiple slings, or a long, adjustable-length sling are often the best options.

Top roped climbing is often (psychologically) easier and safer than sport climbing, in which the lead climber clips into preplaced bolts in the rock, or traditional climbing, in which protection is placed along the route by a lead climber. Many novice climbers initially experience the sport through top roping.

Sport climbing

Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. Sport climbing places an emphasis on gymnastic ability, strength and endurance, while virtually eliminating the need to place protection while climbing. Also see Free_climbing.

Basics
Sport climbing equipment. From left to right, top to bottom are: rope, helmet, climbing shoes, harness, chalk bag, belay device, and quick draws.
Sport climbing equipment. From left to right, top to bottom are: rope, helmet, climbing shoes, harness, chalk bag, belay device, and quick draws.

A route suitable for sport climbing has pre-placed bolts following a line up a rock face. Sport climbs are typically between 20 and 120 feet in length, and have eight to twelve bolts (some routes may have as few as three bolts, while other routes may have twenty-five or more).

Sport climbing can be undertaken with relatively little equipment. Equipment used in sport climbing includes:

* A dynamic rope
* Quickdraws
* A belay device
* Climbing harnesses for belayer and climber
* A few runners
* A helmet is recommended
* Climbing Shoes and chalk bag are normally used, although not technically necessary

Two quickdraws. The left side of the draws are clipped directly to the bolt. The rope will be clipped through the right side.
Two quickdraws. The left side of the draws are clipped directly to the bolt. The rope will be clipped through the right side.

To lead a sport climb is to ascend a route with a rope tied to the climber's harness, and with the loose end of the rope handled by a belayer. As each bolt is reached along the route, the climber attaches a quickdraw to the bolt, and then clips the rope through the hanging end of the quickdraw. This bolt is now protecting the climber in the event of a fall. At the top of sport routes, there is typically a two-bolt anchor that can be used to return the climber to the ground or previous rappel point.

Because sport routes do not require placing protection, the climber can concentrate on the difficulty of the moves rather than placing protection or the consequences of a fall.

Sport climbing differs from traditional climbing with respect to the type and placement of protection. Traditional climbing uses mostly removeable protection (such as cams or nuts), and tends to minimize the usage of pre-placed protection. Sport climbing typically involves single pitch routes, whereas traditional climbing can include single-pitch routes as well as longer, multi-pitch ascents. There are areas like El Potrero Chico that feature multi-pitch sport climbs, but longer routes generally lack pre-placed anchors due to economical, logistical or ethical reasons.

The drilling required to insert expansion bolts invariably damages the rock this being the main reason, that traditional climbers disdain the use of bolts.

Rock types that produce good sport climbs include limestone, granite and quartzite, though sport climbs can be found on almost all rock types.

Ratings

Sport climbs are assigned subjective ratings to indicate difficulty. The type of rating depends on the geographic location of the route, since different countries and climbing communities use different rating systems.

The Ewbank rating system, used in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, is a numerical open-ended system, starting from 1, which you can (at least in theory) walk up, up to 34 (as of 2004).

The French rating system considers the overall difficulty of the climb, taking into account the difficulty of the moves and the length of climb. This differs from most grading systems where one rates a climbing route according to the most difficult section (or single move). Grades are numerical, starting at 1 (very easy) and the system is open-ended. Each numerical grade can be subdivided by adding a letter (a, b or c). Examples: 2, 4, 4b, 6a, 7c. An optional + (no -) may be used to further differentiate difficulty. Many countries in Europe use a system with similar grades but not necessarily matching difficulties. Sport climbing in Britain and Ireland uses the French grading system, often prefixed with the letter "F".

In the United States, the Yosemite Decimal System is used to rate sport climbs. Current grades for sport routes vary between 5.0 (very, very easy) to 5.15 (ridiculously hard), although the system is open-ended. Past 5.10, letter grades between a and d are sometimes used for further subdivision (e.g. 5.11a or 5.10d). Pluses and minuses may also be used (e.g. 5.9+ or 5.11-).[1] Originally, the YDS rating was designed to rate the difficulty of the hardest move on a given route.However, modern sport grades often take into account other features such as length and sustainedness.

Terminology

Sport climbers have developed their own terminology. For example, sport climbers have terms to categorize a successful climb based on the number of attempts and pre-existing knowledge of a given route:

* An ascent is considered an onsight if climbed the first try, without falls and without prior knowledge of the route.
* An ascent is considered a flash if climbed the first try, without falls but with some prior knowledge such as, but not limited to, watching another person climb it or discussing it with another climber.
* An ascent is considered a red point once a climber has attempted a given route and failed to climb it on the first attempt, but succeeded on a subsequent attempt while placing quickdraws.
* An ascent is considered a pink point once a climber has attempted a given route and failed to climb it on the first attempt, but succeeded on a subsequent attempt while climbing on pre-placed quickdraws. In some climbing communities, a pink point is considered to be a red point. In other climbing communities, this term has been abandoned entirely.

Routes that are at or above the individual climber's skill level often require working to red point (e.g. "We spent the summer working Ro Sham Po at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky."). A climber may return to a climb between two and hundreds of times to work out the moves, memorize the movements, and develop the strength and stamina required to complete the route. It is not uncommon for climbers to work routes for months or years.

A route that is being worked is considered that climber's project. Upon success, a climber is said to have sent a given route. (e.g. "Pete was working Ro Sham Po all summer, and in October he sent it.") The term can be used in the present tense as send. (e.g. "We were all yelling at Pete, 'send it!'")

Prior knowledge of a route passed between climbers is referred to as beta. Beta can be information about difficult moves, specific sequences, or any other information that aids in ascent. In particular, a climber may be interested in getting beta for the crux of a route. The crux is the most difficult section of a route. (e.g. "Pete got a bunch of beta for the crux moves on Ro Sham Po from Bill, who sent the route last year.")

Some of the terminology described above was developed by sport climbers, and has been adopted by other forms of climbing, such as bouldering and traditional climbing.

Ethics

The ethics climbers adopt toward their sport are not always steadfast, and they often depend on the venue. The following examples are merely outlines that do not always hold true.

Bolting

Whether a route should be bolted as a sport climb is often in dispute. In some areas, including a large part of the United States, if a route cannot be safely climbed with the use of traditional gear, it is acceptable to bolt it. However, in much of the U.K., similar bolting is widely considered unacceptable. Additionally, the method of bolting may often be challenged. Many early sport routes were bolted by the first ascentionist, on lead. However, it is now considered acceptable in most areas to place bolts while rappelling, before climbing the route.

First Ascents

Sometimes, a newly bolted route is considered "red tagged," and ethics dictate that the person who bolted the route should be the only climber to attempt it until they can send it. Other times, the bolter will allow the route they developed to become an "open project" that anyone can try. Ascents of reserved routes have led to a number of controversies in the sport climbing world.

Chipping, Comfortizing, and Reinforcing

Changing the natural features of rock is often frowned upon, but in many parts of the world it is still accepted to some extent. At some areas, "chipping" of the rock with a chisel or similar tool to create a hold that did not exist naturally is considered acceptable. This is particularly true in some quarries as well as some European crags. However, at many other areas, local ethics absolutely forbid this.

Comfortizing holds often involves aggressively cleaning a route to the point where sharp holds have been filed down, often making them somewhat easier to use. While many climbers frown on this, in some areas comfortizing is considered acceptable to a point.

Reinforcing rock with glue is the most widely accepted modification to natural features in the sport climbing world. When a popular route is climbed over and over, holds may become looser and closer to breaking. Sometimes, these holds will be reinforced to prevent them from breaking. Other times, if a hold entirely breaks off, it may be glued back on. In most areas, these practices are considered acceptable if done neatly.

Sending

Sometimes, an ascent or the style in which it is done will come into dispute. For example, a leader who experiences tension on their rope from their belayer while climbing without falling may have not made a valid ascent, through no fault of their own. Additionally, the line between an onsight and a flash is often disputed. Some climbers consider any knowledge of a route, including its grade, to be beta that invalidates an onsight. However, other climbers will go so far as to belay another climber on a route and still claim that they did not have enough prior knowledge to move from the onsight realm to the flash realm.

Not Sending

If a climber fails to onsight or flash a route, they may decide to "work" it by attempting to climb it despite falling and hanging on the rope. However, at popular destinations, multiple parties of climbers will often line up to try a route. A climber working a route may spend an inordinate amount of time on it, preventing other parties from climbing it. This is often frowned upon, particularly if the climber is toproping rather than leading.

Traditional climbing

Traditional climbing, or Trad climbing, is a style of climbing that emphasizes the skills necessary for establishing routes in an exploratory fashion. Before the advent of sport climbing, the normal style of unaided rock climbing was what is now referred to as "traditional". Trad climbing usually involves the leader ascending a section of rock while placing their own protective devices as he/she climbs. Route finding, effective gear placements, self control, and good climbing skills are essential. Normally, such climbs are not previewed or rehearsed on a top rope (with or without tension), and emphasis is placed on passing difficult sections on the first try. As a form of free climbing, only the limbs and body of the climber are used to effect upward progress, and protective devices are placed solely to catch the climber in the event of a fall.

Types of Protection

The majority of the protection placed while leading a traditional line does not consist of permanently installed bolts, but of removable protective devices such as

* Spring loaded camming device
* aluminum or steel nuts
* hexagonal-shaped chocks
* Tricams

Carabiners and slings are then used to connect the protection gear to the climber's lead rope, so that in the event of a fall, the rope can be used (by the belayer below) to 'catch' the falling climber. Modern traditional climbs very rarely have placed bolts, except in the case of difficult lines that lack the features necessary to place adequate removable gear. It is also considered extremely bad style to install new protection bolts on existing climbs that can be completed without them.

Commonly used Knots

A number of knots are required for traditional climbing, to create anchors, to tie in the climbers and even to be used during the climb.

* Figure 8 is commonly used to tie in the climbers at both ends.
* Inline Figure 8 is mostly used for anchors.
* Clove Hitch is sometimes used to make a climber safe quickly at a belay ledge
* Alpine Butterfly can be used to tie a climber into the middle of a rope.
* Munter Hitch is commonly used to belay without a belay device
* Slip Knot can be used during a climb to sling a protrusion of rock known as a chickenhead

Anchors

When a climber has reached the top of a climb an anchor must be set up to allow the leader to bring up the seconder safely. An anchor has a number of different components which should be put together in a redundant way to make the anchors safe.

* Protection - An anchor typically consists of 4 pieces of protection with the minimum being 2 pieces.
* Cordelletes/Web-o-lettes/Rope - These are used to tie the pieces of protection of the anchor together using

the above mentioned knots

* Carabiners - Are used to connect the pieces of protection to the rope and also to attach the belay device and lead climber to the anchor.

Bailing

In some cases a traditional climb may be to difficult or time may be running out before it gets dark so the lead climber decides to bail off the climb and descend to the ground before reaching the top. To do this an anchor is created mid climb and protection is left on the rock after the climbers abseil back down to the ground.

An example of how a Traditional Climb is performed
* Leader places gear on his/her harness
* Leader ties into the rope using a Figure 8 knot.
* Seconder ties into the other end of the rope.
* Seconder puts the leader on belay using a belay device or munter hitch.
* Leader climbs up and places the first piece of protection. The first piece of protection should be directional, which means that it should not be able to be pulled out if it moves up or down.
* Leader uses a quick draw or extended draw to connect the first piece to the rope.
* Leader climbs upwards and places the second piece of protection and repeats until the top of the climb.
* Leader creates an anchor and clips into using a screw gate carabiner to become safe.
* Seconder takes leader off belay
* Leader pulls up all the rope until there is no slack between the leader and seconder.
* Leader puts seconder on belay
* Seconder climbs up and removes the protection the leader has placed on the way up.

Types of Rock

A number of types of rock are climbed on each with a varying degree of suitability for traditional climbing. Some examples are Sandstone, Granite and Limestone.

Ethics of Traditional Climbing

While it may be more dangerous than sports climbing traditional climbing leaves little or no trace of climbing, which preserves the natural environment of the cliff face.

By leaving the ethics of traditional climbing; the original ethics, sports climbers divided the climbing community.

Lead climbing

Lead climbing is a climbing technique used to ascend a route. This technique is predominantly used in rock climbing and involves a lead climber attaching themselves to a length of dynamic (stretchy) climbing rope and ascending a route whilst periodically attaching protection to the face of the route and "clipping in" to it. The lead climber must have another person acting as a belayer. The belayer has multiple roles: holding the rope in the event of a fall, and paying out or taking up rope as the climber moves.

As lead climbing does not require a pre-placed anchor at the top of the route, it is often seen as less restricted than top roping. Also, because a lead climber does not have an anchor point above them whilst climbing, only the limbs and body of the climber are used to effect upward progress. Protective devices are only placed to catch the climber in the event of a fall.

Lead climbing is an advanced technique, and is rarely practiced by novice climbers.

Lead climbing basics

When lead climbing, the lead climber or leader wears a harness tied to one end of a rope. The leader's partner provides the belay, paying out rope as needed, but ready to hold the rope tightly, usually with the aid of a belay device, to catch the leader in the event of a fall. The lead climber ascends the route, periodically placing protection for safety in the event of a fall. The protection can consist of pre-placed bolts and pitons, to which the climber clips quickdraws, or removable protection such as nuts and spring loaded camming devices which are carefully secured by the climber into cracks or other features. Distances between pieces of protection can range from three to forty feet or more, although most often the distance is between six and twelve feet.

At any point, the leader can fall at least twice as far as the distance to the most recently placed protection. If a leader is ten feet above the last piece of protection, a fall will be a minimum of twenty feet. Realistically, the fall would likely include several more feet due to rope elasticity and slack and give in the overall mechanical system. Any time a lead climber approaches twice the height of the last piece of protection, there is danger of a ground fall in which the falling climber hits the ground before the rope goes tight. In such a case, the rope does no good at all. The severity of a fall which is arrested by the climbing rope is measured by the fall factor: the ratio of the distance fallen to the amount of rope between the climber and the belayer. A fall of 20 feet is much more severe (exerts more force on the climber and climbing equipment) if it occurs with 10 feet of rope out (i.e. the climber has placed no protection and falls from 10 feet above the belayer to 10 feet below--a factor 2 fall) than if it occurs 100 feet above the belayer (a fall factor of 0.2), in which case the stretch of the rope more effectively cushions the fall.

Once the leader reaches a suitable spot for anchoring, or runs out of protection (hopefully the former), two things can occur:

1. The climber is lowered to the ground by the belayer or rappels to the ground, removing the pieces of protection on the way down. This is common when sport climbing or climbing short routes.
2. The leader belays the lower climber (the former belayer) up to the anchors. On the way up, the climber cleans (removes) the protection placed by the leader. This is common when climbing multi-pitch routes, where this process is repeated once for each pitch.

Sport climbing generally uses pre-placed protection, while removable protection is more commonly used when traditional climbing. However, it is not uncommon to see routes with both types of protection present when lead climbing.

Lead climbing is done for several reasons. Often, placing a top-rope is not an option because the anchors are not accessible by any means other than climbing. Sport climbing and traditional climbing both utilize lead climbing techniques for practical reasons, as well as stylistic reasons. Climbers may work individual pitches on top-rope, but valid ascents require the climber to lead the pitch.

Aid climbing

Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. In the Yosemite Decimal System used in the US, it is sometimes called "6th class" climbing.

The term contrasts with free climbing in which no artificial aids are used to make progress. In aid climbing, the climber ascends by hanging on, and climbing on, his or her equipment; in free climbing the climber ascends by holding onto, and stepping on, natural features of the rock, using rope and equipment only to catch them in case of a fall, and to hang on at belay stations. In general, aid climbing places less emphasis on athletic fitness and physical strength but more on technical skill, though the physical aspects of hard aid climbing should not be underestimated. Aid techniques are most often utilized on extremely steep and long routes, demanding great endurance and stamina, both physical and mental.

Technique

In a typical ascent with aid the climber places pieces of equipment ("protection") in cracks or other natural features of the rock, then clips an aider (a ladder-like device, also called stirrup or étrier) to the protection, stands up on the aider, and repeats the process. Just as in free climbing, the usual technique involves two climbers, a leader and a belayer. The leader is connected by a rope to the belayer, who remains at one spot (the "belay station") while the leader moves up. As the leader advances, the rope is let out by the belayer, and clipped by the leader into the pieces of protection as they are placed. If the leader falls, the belayer locks off the rope and, assuming the protection doesn't rip out, catches the leader's fall on the rope. When the leader, moving up, reaches the end of the rope, or a convenient stopping point, he or she builds an anchor, hangs on it, and fixes the rope to it. This then becomes the next belay station. The belayer then ascends the fixed rope using mechanical ascenders, retrieving the protection that was placed by the leader. Meanwhile, the leader sets up a hauling system and, using another rope brought up for that purpose, hauls up a bag (the "haul bag" or "pig") containing the climbers' food, water, hammocks or "Porta-ledge", sleeping bags, and so on. Many variations on this basic technique are possible, including solo aid climbing and climbing with a team of three.

Until the 1940s the only protection was the piton, driven into a crack in the rock with a hammer. Today, aid climbing uses a considerably larger array of hardware than the pitons used by the first climbers although the primary technique of ascension has not much evolved. The typical gear of an aid climber includes pitons, hooks, copperheads, nuts, camming devices, ascenders, hauling pulleys, aiders, daisy chains and wall hammers. The invention of camming devices or "friends" and other non-damaging rock gear has resulted in the practice of clean aid, where nothing is hammered, a great bonus for popular routes which could be disfigured from continual hammering.

The hardest aid routes are poorly protected and the climber must make long sequences of moves using hooks or tenuous placements. On these routes, a climber may have to commit to moving up onto the most marginal of placements. For example, if a copperhead is pounded into a shallow crease in a rock, and if it rips, the climber is in for a wild ride, as a whole string of tenuous pieces rip out one by one.

Free climbing

Free climbing is a type of rock climbing, in which the climber uses no artificial aids to make upwards progress. In this way, the climber will use only hands, feet and other parts of the body. Ropes and protective equipment are used only for protection against the consequences of a fall. The term is used in contrast to aid climbing, a much less prevalent practice in which equipment is used directly (i.e. pulled or stood on) in order to make progress.

Styles of free climbing include traditional climbing, sport climbing, free soloing and bouldering.

The term free climbing is commonly confused with free soloing by non-climbers. This is a type of free climbing where no rope or protective equipment is used for protection, and a fall would clearly be disastrous. In contrast, the vast majority of free climbers will make use of such equipment as a safeguard when climbing at height.

Free climbing "guidelines" from a U.S. perspective (Stonemaster's, et al.): the adventure of exploring the unknown, living on the cutting edge of the possible and the impossible, and striving to go one better. In light of those ideals, the climbing community espoused a goal of avoiding behavior that sullies (makes less challenging in any way beyond personal improvement) a climbing route.

Rules

The goal is to climb the route first try on-sight as if the rope (if one is being used) is not there. Therefore, true free climbing prohibits:

* Pre-climb inspections to learn more about the climb before starting (however one should always perform a safety inspection on any face that they are about to climb)
* Hangdogging (resting on gear or the rope)
* Pre-placing gear (pinkpointing)
* Pulling or stepping on gear (french free)
* Prior top roping of the lead climb (most common in trad climbing, frequently termed 'headpointing')
* Practice through falling (i.e. failing) on previous lead attempts (most common in sport climbing, frequently termed 'redpointing')

Although an on-sight attempt is the most coveted, in practice all of the above tactics are common practice to greater or lesser extent. This is especially the case in sport climbing. Ordinarily, the traditional climber will only resort to aid as a last resort, in order to complete a hard climb. The aid climber strives to free climb as much of the route as possible.

Types of rock climbing

Rock climbing may be divided into two broad categories: free climbing and aid climbing.

* Free climbing requires the climber use only his/her bodily strength for upward progress. Commonly confused with "free-soloing" which means to climb without a rope. The essence of free climbing is that, although gear may be used to protect a climber in the event of a fall, the actual "climbing" is being done without the help of any artificial device.

* Aid climbing involves using artificial devices placed in the rock to support all or part of the climber's body weight, and is normally practiced on rock formations that lack the necessary natural features suitable for free climbing.

Other kinds of climbing:

* Lead climbing is a method of climbing in which the climber (here called the "leader") climbs a route from the ground up. To protect him/herself, the climber trails a rope which is managed by a belayer who remains on the ground or at an established anchor. As the leader climbs, he/she can either clip the trailed rope through pieces of traditional gear (cams, stoppers), placed in cracks, or clip the rope through gear already in place (bolts, pitons). If a climber falls while leading, he/she cannot comfortably sit back on the rope and be held by the belayer as in toproping (where the rope is anchored above the climber); rather, the leader will fall twice the distance between his/her position and the most recent piece of protection (a cam, stopper, bolt, etc.) that he/she clipped the rope through (assuming this piece of protection holds).
* Traditional Climbing, or "Trad" Climbing. In Trad Climbing, the leader uses mostly removable gear (and the occasional bolt placed on lead) to protect against falls. As in all forms of lead climbing, the climbing team (a leader and follower, or multiple followers) begins at the bottom of a climb and ascends to the top, the leader placing protective devices in the rock as he/she climbs. Once the leader is finished climbing, he/she establishes a belay. The follower then "follows" the route and removes all of the gear placed by the leader. It is important that the leader be proficient at placing Trad (or clean) gear (cams, stoppers, hexes, tri-cams, etc.) because his/her safety depends upon the soundness of each individual gear placement. Placing trad gear on lead can be time-consuming and thus tiring, sometimes making routes feel harder than their rating. Trad climbing is generally practiced according to ethical principles, that dictate only natural gear placements be made. These same ethical principles have driven many to put their lives in danger rather than place a bolt. If the climbers are exceptionally traditional, the leader will immediately lower to the ground or anchor after a fall (rather than continuing on from where he/she is hanging). It is, with perhaps the exception of Free-soloing, the purest form of climbing. A true traditional ascent will leave no trace of its passage.
* Sport Climbing is a type of lead climbing which involves the use of pre-placed permanent bolts for protection. This frees the leader from the need to carry and place traditional gear. The leader merely clips one side of a quickdraw (two carabiners connected by a loop of webbing) into a bolt and the other into the rope. A typical sport route will require the leader to carry between 6 and 12 quickdraws or "draws," one for each bolt in the string of bolts that protect the route. Sport Climbing, in essence, is focused more on the gymnastic aspects of climbing than the aesthetics or adventure. Sport routes are bolted with safety in mind and also because they generally (though not always) ascend faces that are not protectable by any other practical mean. Bolts, however, are not foolproof. The same stringence concerning safety found in Trad. climbing should apply to Sport climbing as well. In the case of a fall, sport climbers often rest on the rope and begin from where they are hanging, called "hang-dogging." Hard sport climbs often require that the climber literally rehearse every single move several times before he/she can complete a clean ascent (without falls).
* Top Roping involves suspending a rope from an anchor located at the top of a short climb. The climber ties into one end of the rope and is belayed by his belayer who manages the other end of the rope. The belayer can belay either from the top or base of the route. This is distinct from Lead climbing where the climber is not safeguarded by a rope attached to an anchor situated at the top of the route.
* Bouldering may be described as climbing short, severe routes on boulders or small outcrops. While safety ropes from above are occasionally used, most boulderers feel that the most ethical form of protection is a bouldering mat or pad similar to those used by gymnasts. In addition, other climbers standing on the ground may "spot" the boulderer, to help safely guide his or her fall.
* Indoor climbing is a form of climbing that can involve bouldering, top roping, and leading in an indoor environment on wood or plastic holds. For most it will be the easiest way to begin the sport.
* Free solo climbing: Usually describes free climbing without a rope or other protective gear. Free solo climbing is distinguished from solo climbing where a climber progressing alone uses a rope and protection devices including a self belay system.

Rock climbing basics

Climbers usually work in pairs. One climber climbs and the other belaying. In lead climbing, the belayer feeds rope to the lead climber through a belay device. The leader climbs, occasionally placing protection or clipping preplaced bolted hangers, until the top is reached. The belayer is ready to "lock off" the rope in case the leader falls.

Both climber and belayer attach the rope to their climbing harness. The rope is tied into the climber's harness with a Figure-of-eight loop or double bowline knot. The leader either places his own protection (Traditional climbing) or clips into permanent protection already attached to the rock (Sport climbing). In traditional climbing, the protection is removable. Usually nuts or Spring-loaded camming device (often referred to as "cams" or "friends") are set in cracks in the rock (although pitons are sometimes used). In sport climbing the protection is metal loops called bolts. Bolts are secured to the rock with either expanding masonry bolts taken from the construction industry, or by placing glue-in bolt systems. In ice climbing the protection is made-up of Ice Screws or similar devices hammered or screwed into the ice by the leader, and removed by the second climber.

The lead climber typically connects the rope to the protection with carabiners or quickdraws. If the lead climber falls, he will fall twice the length of the rope from the last protection point, plus rope stretch (typically 5% to 8% of the rope out), plus slack. If any of the gear breaks or pulls out of the rock or if the belayer fails to lock off the belay device immediately, the fall will be significantly longer. Thus if a climber is 2 meters above the last protection he will fall 2 meters to the protection, 2 meters below the protection, plus slack and rope stretch, for a total fall of over 4 meters.

If the leader falls, the belayer must arrest the rope to stop the fall. To achieved this the rope is run through a belay device attached to the belayer's harness. The belay device runs the rope through a series of sharp curves that, when operated properly, greatly increases friction and stops the rope from running. Some of the more popular types of belay devices are the ATC Belay Device, the Figure 8 and various auto-locking belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri

If the route being climbed is a multi-pitch route the leader sets up a secure anchor system at the top of the pitch, also called a belay, from where he can belay as his partner climbs. As the second climber climbs, he/she removes the gear from the rock in case of traditional climbing or removes the quickdraws from the bolts in the case of sport climbing. Both climbers are now at the top of the pitch with all their equipment. Note that the second climber is protected from above while climbing, but the lead climber is not, so being the lead climber is more challenging and dangerous. After completing the climb, and with both climbers at the top of the pitch, both climbers must rappel or descend the climb in order to return to their starting point. All climbs do not necessarily require the lead climber to belay the second climber from the top. The belayer could lower the lead climber down after he/she has completed a single pitch route.

Occasionally, climbers may decide to "move together", a risky but speedy technique also called simul-climbing, in which both leader and second move at the same time without stopping to belay. The leader - approximately a rope length above the second - usually places multiple pieces of protection as he climbs so that the weight of the second climber might arrest a possible leader's fall. Should the second climber to fall, however, the leader may be pulled from his holds, with potentially dangerous results.

Rock climbing

Rock climbing, broadly speaking, is the act of ascending steep rock formations. Normally, climbers use gear and safety equipment specifically designed for the purpose. Strength, endurance, and mental control, as well as agility and balance, are required to cope with tough, dangerous physical challenges. Knowledge of climbing techniques and the use of essential pieces of gear and equipment are crucial.

History

Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right. As rock climbing matured, grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare the relative difficulties between climbs. Over the years, both climbing techniques and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport have steadily evolved.

We are the explorer

we are a mountaineer...
we are a climber...
we live on earth together
to climb..
the top of the world.