Rock climbing basics

Climbers usually work in pairs. One climber climbs and the other belaying. In lead climbing, the belayer feeds rope to the lead climber through a belay device. The leader climbs, occasionally placing protection or clipping preplaced bolted hangers, until the top is reached. The belayer is ready to "lock off" the rope in case the leader falls.

Both climber and belayer attach the rope to their climbing harness. The rope is tied into the climber's harness with a Figure-of-eight loop or double bowline knot. The leader either places his own protection (Traditional climbing) or clips into permanent protection already attached to the rock (Sport climbing). In traditional climbing, the protection is removable. Usually nuts or Spring-loaded camming device (often referred to as "cams" or "friends") are set in cracks in the rock (although pitons are sometimes used). In sport climbing the protection is metal loops called bolts. Bolts are secured to the rock with either expanding masonry bolts taken from the construction industry, or by placing glue-in bolt systems. In ice climbing the protection is made-up of Ice Screws or similar devices hammered or screwed into the ice by the leader, and removed by the second climber.

The lead climber typically connects the rope to the protection with carabiners or quickdraws. If the lead climber falls, he will fall twice the length of the rope from the last protection point, plus rope stretch (typically 5% to 8% of the rope out), plus slack. If any of the gear breaks or pulls out of the rock or if the belayer fails to lock off the belay device immediately, the fall will be significantly longer. Thus if a climber is 2 meters above the last protection he will fall 2 meters to the protection, 2 meters below the protection, plus slack and rope stretch, for a total fall of over 4 meters.

If the leader falls, the belayer must arrest the rope to stop the fall. To achieved this the rope is run through a belay device attached to the belayer's harness. The belay device runs the rope through a series of sharp curves that, when operated properly, greatly increases friction and stops the rope from running. Some of the more popular types of belay devices are the ATC Belay Device, the Figure 8 and various auto-locking belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri

If the route being climbed is a multi-pitch route the leader sets up a secure anchor system at the top of the pitch, also called a belay, from where he can belay as his partner climbs. As the second climber climbs, he/she removes the gear from the rock in case of traditional climbing or removes the quickdraws from the bolts in the case of sport climbing. Both climbers are now at the top of the pitch with all their equipment. Note that the second climber is protected from above while climbing, but the lead climber is not, so being the lead climber is more challenging and dangerous. After completing the climb, and with both climbers at the top of the pitch, both climbers must rappel or descend the climb in order to return to their starting point. All climbs do not necessarily require the lead climber to belay the second climber from the top. The belayer could lower the lead climber down after he/she has completed a single pitch route.

Occasionally, climbers may decide to "move together", a risky but speedy technique also called simul-climbing, in which both leader and second move at the same time without stopping to belay. The leader - approximately a rope length above the second - usually places multiple pieces of protection as he climbs so that the weight of the second climber might arrest a possible leader's fall. Should the second climber to fall, however, the leader may be pulled from his holds, with potentially dangerous results.

lead climbing

Below is a summary of the citieria that we use to assess an individual's ability to climb and belay safely. All participants must be able to do these things to earn and retain the privilege of climbing in our gyms in order to ensure the safety of everyone. Please do not be disappointed if we require you to test multiple times; we are merely attempting to create as safe an environment as we can. We thank you in advance for taking the time and energy to learn safe climbing and belaying technique. Minimum Requirements for Safe Top-Roped Climbing Touchstone Climbing will issue a belay card and allow climbers to retain the belaying privileges only if the individual demonstrates the following safety items at all times: All participants must sign a waiver releasing Touchstone Climbing from liability and acknowledging their own personal responsibility for safe climbing. All participants must use UIAA-approved belay devices and harnesses. Belayers must remain attentive and stand while belaying. Harnesses must be snug with belt above hips and tied-in securely with buckle doubled back. Figure 8 follow-through knot must be tied through waist belt and leg loops. Minimum of 6 inch tail on figure 8 follow through knot, with additional safety knot optional. Belay device must be set properly and belay carabiner must be locked. Belaying without dropping/letting go of the brake hand. Switching between belaying and lowering without compromising the brake hand. When lowering, brake hand must not go above 3 o'clock position. Minimum Requirements for Safe Lead Climbing All lead climbers and lead belayers must be lead checked by gym staff. The lead test must be on a 5.10b route (or harder) that is unfamiliar to the climber. The reason for this requirement is that only a 5.10b or harder has no rests. We want to ensure that a climber will make the correct safety choices even when fatigued. Belaying Lead belayers must sign into the Lead Check-In Log at the front counter each day. All regular belay rules above must be followed (e.g. harness doubled back, belay hand always on rope, etc.). Belayers must remain attentive to lead climbers at all times and stand while belaying. Belayers must keep minimal slack - rope must not touch ground. Belayer must take the leader fall without losing control and with minimal rope play. Belayer must belay immediately underneath the first clip until climber has clipped at least the 4th quickdraw. Climbing Lead climbers must sign into the Lead Check-In Log at the front counter each day. Leader climbers must bring their own lead ropes, as lead ropes are not provided by the gym. Leader must clip all quickdraws, in order. Leader must clip carabiners in correct direction, without trouble. Lead climbers must clip at a level between their head and waist. Leader must not Z-clip quickdraws. Leader must appear safe. Leader must be willing to take a reasonable fall.

Quickdraws

Quickdraws


Quickdraws (referred to as draws by many climbers) are used by climbers to attach ropes to bolt anchors or protection. They allow the rope to run through with minimal friction. Quickdraws usually consist of two non-locking carabiners connected by a short, pre-sewn loop of webbing. They come in varying lengths, and some even come as extendable slings. DMM makes a wire-gate carabiner with a pulley built in on the end to reduce rope drag on the end of a quickdraw.

Carabiners

Carabiners


Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors. Almost all carabiners for recreational climbing are made from aluminum alloy.

Carabiners exist in various forms; the shape of the carabiner and the type of gate varies according to the use for which it is intended. There are two major varieties: locking and non-locking carabiners. Locking carabiners offer a method of preventing the gate from opening when in use. Locking carabiners are used for important connections, such as at the anchor point or a belay device. There are four different types of locking carabiners, including a twist-lock and a thread-lock. Non-locking carabiners are commonly found as a component of quickdraws.

Carabiners are made with many different types of gates including wire-gate, bent-gate, and straight-gate. The different gates have different strengths and uses. Most locking carabiners utilize a straight-gate. Bent-gate and wire-gate carabiners are usually found on the rope-end of quickdraws, as they facilitate easier rope clipping than a straight gate. Wire gates are also lighter then other forms and are less likely to vibrate open (referred to as "gate chatter" when caused by striking a rock or swinging while suspended).

Carabiners are also known by many slang names including crab (seldom used) and biner (pronounced beaner).

Steel krabs are normally used by instructors when working with groups as the are harder wearing then aluninum alloy, but are much heavier.