. : MOUNTAINEERING : .: belaying

Below is a summary of the citieria that we use to assess an individual's ability to climb and belay safely. All participants must be able to do these things to earn and retain the privilege of climbing in our gyms in order to ensure the safety of everyone. Please do not be disappointed if we require you to test multiple times; we are merely attempting to create as safe an environment as we can. We thank you in advance for taking the time and energy to learn safe climbing and belaying technique.

Minimum Requirements for Safe Top-Roped Climbing
Touchstone Climbing will issue a belay card and allow climbers to retain the belaying privileges only if the individual demonstrates the following safety items at all times:

All participants must sign a waiver releasing Touchstone Climbing from liability and acknowledging their own personal responsibility for safe climbing.
All participants must use UIAA-approved belay devices and harnesses.
Belayers must remain attentive and stand while belaying.
Harnesses must be snug with belt above hips and tied-in securely with buckle doubled back.
Figure 8 follow-through knot must be tied through waist belt and leg loops.
Minimum of 6 inch tail on figure 8 follow through knot, with additional safety knot optional.
Belay device must be set properly and belay carabiner must be locked.
Belaying without dropping/letting go of the brake hand.
Switching between belaying and lowering without compromising the brake hand.
When lowering, brake hand must not go above 3 o'clock position.

Minimum Requirements for Safe Lead Climbing
All lead climbers and lead belayers must be lead checked by gym staff. The lead test must be on a 5.10b route (or harder) that is unfamiliar to the climber. The reason for this requirement is that only a 5.10b or harder has no rests. We want to ensure that a climber will make the correct safety choices even when fatigued.

Belaying
- Lead belayers must sign into the Lead Check-In Log at the front counter each day.
- All regular belay rules above must be followed (e.g. harness doubled back, belay hand always on rope, etc.).
- Belayers must remain attentive to lead climbers at all times and stand while belaying.
- Belayers must keep minimal slack - rope must not touch ground.
- Belayer must take the leader fall without losing control and with minimal rope play.
- Belayer must belay immediately underneath the first clip until climber has clipped at least the 4th quickdraw.
Climbing
- Lead climbers must sign into the Lead Check-In Log at the front counter each day.
- Leader climbers must bring their own lead ropes, as lead ropes are not provided by the gym.
- Leader must clip all quickdraws, in order.
- Leader must clip carabiners in correct direction, without trouble.
- Lead climbers must clip at a level between their head and waist.
- Leader must not Z-clip quickdraws.
- Leader must appear safe.
- Leader must be willing to take a reasonable fall.