Climbing routes on Kilimanjaro

The rock on Kilimanjaro is of a poor quality and unsuitable for rock climbing, however there are several good snow and ice routes that are sadly rapidly vanishing due to glacial recession. The complex peaks of Mawenzi provide a few rock routes on loose rock.

Until recently one of the most magnificent mountaineering expeditions in the world was an ascent of the Umbwe Route followed by the Heim Glacier. Just left of this the Breach Wall was climbed by the hardest route on Kilimanjaro the crux of this being a 100m high vertical icicle. Further left again the Western Breach (Arrow Glacier) Route provides an easy scrambling route to the crater. Sadly glacial recession has made the Heim Glacier a much harder and less pleasant route.

Park authorities and outfitters are not keen on climbing routes being tackled and special arrangements and disclaimers must be signed. The Western Breach route falls into this category although it is only a scramble on account of rock fall danger.

Breach Wall Direct

The left icicle was climbed by R Messner and K Renzler in 1978 (l2h including lower sections, VI**). There are a variety of approaches to the icicles: (i) up the lower walls by steep rocks and snow below and left of the icicles, (ii) by steep snowfields and ice to ledges leading right to lowest point of Balletto Gl. (iii) from the Heim Gl. by a left rising traverse. Avoid attempting the icicle in the afternoon when it is often running with water. There are good bivouac ledges at the base of the icicles.

The climb is probably best tackled in the period May to August.

Heim Glacier

A Nelson, H J Cooke, D N Goodall, 1957. Grade III+, 12 hours. The obvious glacier with a dog-leg right of the Breach Wall precipices. An outstanding route; technical difficulties are short. From the Barranco Hut follow the South Kibo Circuit (cut-off point as noted above) and take a rocky then moraine ridge north, directly to foot of glacier. A bivouac boulder lies about l00m below glacier snout at 4500m (3h). Climb the snout or go up scree on left and traverse onto glacier higher up. Follow the easiest line upwards. The top of Window Buttress can be reached in 2 ways. (i) l00m from its highest rocks, make a traverse left onto a broad ledge on the buttress; follow this left then right to a ramp which is climbed to an ice pitch and the top (II/III). (ii) The broad ledge can be avoided by climbing 450 ice leftwards to the top in 3 pitches (III). 4h. This is the knee of the dog-leg (4800m). Good bivouac site in magnificent surroundings. (From here a long rising traverse left gains the base of the 2 famous Breach Wall icicles, 80m high). Climb easy slopes to a steepening taken direct or avoided by gullies well to the left. Beyond, the angle relents (bivouac sites possible) and the summit ice cliffs are seen. Aim for the left edge of these and pass below them to reach Uhuru Peak (6h).

Note: glacial recession has recently removed the lowest part of the Heim leaving steep, unstable scree and icy patches. In poor snow cover this section could be very hard and unpleasant.

Western Breach

Grade I, 6 hours. The easiest way on the south-west side of the mountain; well marked. The first section is on steep scree above the former location of the Arrow Glacier Hut, occasional snow/ice patches. Higher up a pleasant scramble and a short loose section lead to the crater rim, 200m below Uhuru Peak. Coming down, route finding may be tricky because the breach fills with cloud in the afternoon. For reaching the summit ther are 2 ways to continue. (i) Traverse 2km east then south-east across the relatively flat crater floor to attain the Marangu route at Stella Point halfway between Gillman's Point and Uhuru Peak. (ii) The Furtwangler Glacier to the south-east is skirted either on its right or on its easier north side; beyond, an easy gully leads to the level rim, l00m west of Uhuru Peak. Ice axe and possibly crampons useful.