campus board

A campus board is a training tool that has been widely adopted to improve rock climbing performance. Typically, a user ascends or decends the campus board using only their hands. Campus boards can take a variety of different forms and may incorporate a variety of materials. As one example, a campus board may comprise horizontal thin slats or rails of wood attached to an inclined board in a ladderlike configuration. However, some implementations may utilize bolt on climbing holds or sections of pipe. A campus board is generally set at overhanging angle of inclination that is between vertical and 20 degrees. One consideration for selecting the angle of inclination is the avoidance of any interference that may result between the user's legs and the campus board or wall.

The campus board was invented by Wolfgang Güllich in 1988 while he was training for a new route, Action Directe, which required extreme dynamic finger strength. The first campus board was hung at a university in a gym called The Campus Centre. Hence the term "campus" has been applied to the name of the training board, training method, and style of climbing, or "campusing" in which only the user's hands and arms are used.

There are a variety of training approaches that may be used with a campus board. As one example, a user may alternate the use of specific fingers to increase finger strength when ascending or descending the board. As another example, upper-body strength may be increased by utilizing large lunges between specific rails or holds of the campus board. Reactive training may be used to increase muscle recruitment by dynamically moving between the campus board rails simultaneously with both hands. Training on a campus board may result in better performance due to the improvement of motor training, increased finger strength on a variety grips, and greater power and lock-off strength of the arms. However, it should be appreciated that many top climbers do not utilize campus board training, nor does campus board training necessarily translate directly to improved performance on the rock.

In general, campus board training should only be attempted by climbers who already have a threshold level of strength, as the physical intensity of campusing can easily result in injury. While there is no right time to begin a campus board training regime, some have followed a general approach which requires the user to first be capable of bouldering at least V5, or climb at least French 6c